West County & North Coast |
Sunset Boulders are located in Goat Rock State Park. This is the classic bouldering area for the North Coast. For years this has been the most popular spot in Sonoma to learn, toprope, boulder, and sandbag. |
Glaucophane-garnet schist boulders rise out of the coastal plane. Subducted and reheated over and over again in the hydraulics of the San Andreas Fault Zone, these boulders have hard solid edges and Gritstone like friction.....Unless it's raining! |
The Sunset Face (5.9) provides a sustained 40' toprope with thin incut edges and cracks. |
Climb the relatively easy face at center to find various bolts and cracks for toproping. Some long slings 15' or more can be useful for seting up variations and avoiding sharp edges. |
Twin Coves is located on a rocky spit just 3 miles north of Jenner. Centered between two secluded coves this island of rock offers a stunning 5.6 arete, a big roof, caves, boulders, and more |
The Solo Arete (5.6) tops out 40' off the deck. Bolts at summit allow for top roping on all sides, (bring some padding for sharp edges) |
The South Cove Boulder. Your choice of sand or water landings! (The main island is seen in background) |
On Hwy 1, three miles north of Jenner, park at the dirt turnout and follow trails down the bluff between the coves. Some creative toproping with long slings and edge padding is required for most topropes. |
Blind Beach is located in Goat Rock State Park. Park at the first overlook parking and follow a paved trail down to the beach. The X and 4X Boulders are salty but solid and provide excellent bouldering at low tide. The steep main boulder has an old 1/4 bolt stud on the face and and some Rawl bolts on top. |
The Sport Wall (5.11) towers above the Main Coular. The Sandbagger (5.6) & The Interesting Block can be seen below the perched boulder on the left skyline. The Red Wall makes up the forground on the right. |
The Main Wall: from left to right, arrow points down to Jason's Roof area, The Rackless Crack (5.10d), The Bohemian Bypass (5.12b), The Pseudo Bohemic Hitch-Hiking Youth (5.12c). The crack below the climber is The Fundamentalist (5.12), go left and its Judge Dredd (5.13b), go right and your on Jury Duty (5.13c). Arrows point to the Interesting Block (5.5) and The Crack of Zorro (5.10) |
Topping out over the water on on Galapagos (5.9) |
The South Cove Wall: a bit loose, but very fun with topropes at 5.10 on face and crack. An endless supply of bouldering wraps around the formation. |
The Indestructable Surf Palm (5.10) on Secrets Wall.
Small pockets lead to big pockets, big pockets lead to cracks, cracks lead to huge wacos, pull out of the wacos to stemming through a roof /corner system, finish on large flat ledge. Nice! |
The "Not So Super Slab" is actually a super bouldering spot. located near the mouth of the Russian River, and a short distance from Hwy 1 the Super Slab features quality low-ball problems on solid blueschist boulders. It's also a great place to relax and get your body loosened up on easy slabs before heading north. |
The Not So Super Slab Topo |
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This Spectacular Area is located 5 miles north of Jenner. Park at the Vista Trail Access near the junction of Myers Grade Road and Hwy 1. A trail near the restroom will take you over a small hill and down about 25 yards, turn right, (North) and cross over a fence near some small rocks. Continue north and downhill to a larger rock outcroping then follow a trail down the ridgeline keeping on the north side of the fence. 20 min will bring you to the backside of the crag. This trail is steep and loose in spots. Beware of ticks in the spring. |
www.ClimbingSonomaCounty.Homestead.com |
As you travel north on Hwy 1 you shift to the opposite side of the falt zone and leave behind the metamorphic schists and gneiss and find more sedimatary sandstone, pebbly sandstone, and sandy conglomerate. These ancient sea beds have been faulted into huge slabs, then wonderfully sculpted into honeycombs, pockets, cracks, and caves. This area takes the full force of a northwest swell, watch for sleeper waves and beware of ticks on the approach. |
Known by surfers as "Secrets Cove", the actual name for this area is Horshoe Point. Located approximately 25 miles north of Jenner at the north end of Salt Point State Park. Parking is available along Hwy 1 in several places. A network of trails and fireroads will take you to the shoreline in 5 to 10 min of flat walking. |
Located at Hwy 1 and the Gualala river. Walk south 500 yards from the mouth of the river. Solid sandstone boulders with black sand landings |
This is one of the best kept secrets of the Sonoma coast. Marshall Gulch offers hundreds of yards of pumping traverse on black sand beach with a .01mile approach trail from Hwy 1. Walk south on beach from trail. |
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